Hair Dye Safety Guide: Chemicals, Cancer Risks & Safer Options
Many people use hair dye without realizing it may contain harmful chemicals linked to health issues such as skin reactions and even some types of cancer. Learn what’s in your products, what health risks may be involved and how to choose safer options.
What Chemicals Are in Hair Dye and Are They Safe?
Hair dyes include chemicals like preservatives, coloring agents and other hair product ingredients that may cause health issues. These ingredients have been linked to safety risks such as skin problems, hair damage, allergic reactions and increased cancer risk.
Each brand of hair dye may have a different combination of these chemicals. In some cases, there may be over 5,000 chemicals working together to make hair dyes effective.
- Ammonia and Hydrogen Peroxide: Used to open up the hair cuticle to allow dye to get into the hair. These chemicals can cause scalp irritation and hair damage.
- Hydroquinone: Used as a fragrance and preservative. It can cause skin irritation and kidney problems.
- Imidazolidinyl Urea and DMDM hydantoin: Preservatives that release low amounts of formaldehyde. They can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. High exposure to formaldehyde is linked to cancer.
- Isothiazolinones, such as methylisothiazolinone: Used as preservatives and may cause allergic skin reactions.
- P-phenylenediamine or PPD (and other aromatic amines): This chemical and others like it help make darker color shades and longer-lasting color. These can cause allergic reactions and skin sensitization, and some are associated with cancer.
- Resorcinol: Helps produce various dye shades. It’s a skin irritant and has hormone-disrupting properties.
- Toluene and Toluene-2,5-diamine: Used in some dye formulations and may cause skin and eye irritation.
Permanent hair dyes and darker shades of dye typically have higher amounts of chemicals that may cause health issues. Right now, about 80% of the hair dyes on the market are permanent hair dyes.
What the Research Says About Hair Dye and Cancer
Some research has found that hair dye exposure may lead to an increased risk of bladder cancer, non-Hodgkin lymphoma and breast cancer, but the results are mixed.
For hair products in general, like hair dye and chemical hair relaxers, more research is needed to better determine the cancer risk.
However, so far, the strongest association is with breast cancer.
Breast Cancer
Findings from the Sister Study in the International Journal of Cancer found that women who used permanent hair dye had a 9% increased risk of developing breast cancer. However, Black women specifically had a 45% increased risk compared to white women, who had a 7% increased risk.
The cancer risk also went up the more times hair dye was used. Black women who used permanent hair dye every five to eight weeks had a 60% higher breast cancer risk.
Studies haven’t found the same cancer risk with semi-permanent and temporary dyes.
Women who used semi-permanent dye didn’t have an increased breast cancer risk in general. But women who used semi-permanent hair dye on their own without professional help had a 28% increased risk of breast cancer.
Researchers didn’t find an increased cancer risk in women who used temporary dye.
In the same study, researchers also looked at the risks of chemical hair relaxers and discovered a relationship between chemical hair relaxers and cancer. There was a 31% increased risk of breast cancer for women who used relaxers every five to eight weeks.
Bladder Cancer
Some studies of hairdressers and barbers exposed to hair dye found a small increase in the risk of bladder cancer. One meta-analysis published in Occupational and Environmental Medicine found that people who had been hairdressers for at least 10 years were almost twice as likely to develop bladder cancer as people who were never hairdressers.
One study published in the International Journal of Cancer didn’t find an overall increase in bladder cancer risk with permanent hair dye, but it did find that some women with specific genes might have an increased risk.
Non-Hodgkin Lymphoma (NHL)
Researchers found that women who began using hair dye before 1980 were 1.3 times more likely to develop non-Hodgkin lymphoma than women who never used hair dye. But women who used hair dye after 1980 didn’t have an increased risk.
In 1980, hair dye formulas were changed to remove some chemicals that could contribute to cancers such as NHL. This is probably why the risk went down.
What Is the Safest Hair Dye to Use?
While it’s hard to confirm if any hair dye is 100% harmless, the safest types are temporary or semi-permanent dyes, as well as dyes that have fewer chemicals and ingredients.
- Herbatint: No alcohol, ammonia or parabens. Dermatologically tested as safe for sensitive skin. Low peroxide. But it does contain low amounts of PPD.
- Khadi: 100% nontoxic, primarily herbal-based. Uses ingredients made from plants, such as henna or indigo. Make sure to check the full ingredient list by shade.
- Madison Reed: Permanent color without ammonia, resorcinol, parabens, phthalates, PPD or gluten.
- Manic Panic: Free of PPD, ammonia and peroxide. Vegan and cruelty-free.
- Overtone: Temporary hair color that is free of chemicals that cause hair damage, like ammonia and peroxide.
- Tints of Nature: Uses certified organic ingredients.
You can also create your own hair dyes from natural ingredients like coffee, henna or beetroot. But you may need to research how to mix these ingredients first.
Additionally, you should test any hair dye, especially homemade ones, on a smaller patch of hair to make sure you won’t have an allergic reaction before using it.
Tips for Safer Dyeing at Home
If you’re dyeing your hair at home, there are a few things you can do to avoid potential problems.
- Check the ingredients to make sure the dye doesn’t contain potentially harmful ingredients, like PPD, or ingredients you’re allergic to
- Wear gloves to protect your hands
- Follow all hair dye instructions
- Make sure you dye your hair in a well-ventilated area
- Don’t dye your hair if you have any wounds or rashes on your scalp
- Test a patch of hair before you dye your whole head to make sure you aren’t allergic to the dye
After dyeing your hair, be sure to rinse out the dye and remove any residue from your skin, scalp and hair. Limit hair dyeing to every few weeks or longer.
What to Do If You’re Concerned
If you’re concerned about any side effects from hair dye, make sure to talk to your doctor or dermatologist. You can also report any problems you have with a product to the FDA.
If you developed breast cancer, especially triple-negative breast cancer, from long-term use of hair dye, you may qualify to file a hair dye lawsuit. Attorneys are also filing chemical hair relaxer lawsuits on behalf of women who developed cancer.
You can sign up for a free case review on Consumer Notice, and we will match you with an attorney. There’s no pressure to sign up, and you can get information about your legal options.
20 Cited Research Articles
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